From the Heart of Manipur: A Tale of Spice, Chicken, and Love Amidst Unrest
In the heart of New Delhi, India, a story of resilience, preservation of culture, and the power of food unfolds. It’s the story of three Manipuri women, Bidotama, Mardza, and Akoijam Sunita, who have found solace and strength in cooking amidst the turmoil of their homeland, Manipur. This is the tale behind Lomba Kitchen, their culinary venture that serves slices of Manipuri culture and life right from their New Delhi apartment.
The Stirring Journey
In the kitchen, Bidotama, fondly known as Bido, stirs peanuts in a pan while Mardza chops tomatoes and slices U-morok (a hot chilli variety) for a special chicken curry. They converse and chuckle in their native Meitei language, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.
The Transition
Until last year, Bido and Mardza were digital marketing managers in Imphal, Manipur’s capital city, with Akoijam Sunita (Akoi) as their team leader based in Delhi. Their lives took a dramatic turn when ethnic violence broke out in Manipur in May, leaving over 200 people dead and thousands injured. The violence forced Bido and Mardza to leave their home state and seek refuge in New Delhi with their friend, Akoi. And thus began their culinary journey with Lomba Kitchen.
Lomba Kitchen: A Haven of Manipuri Cuisine
Lomba Kitchen was born from the women’s shared love for their culture and food. The name ‘Lomba’ comes from a purple-coloured herb with a citrusy aroma and peppery taste that flowers around October-November in Manipur. The herb is used as a garnish in several Manipuri dishes and brings a sense of home for the women.
The women find comfort in cooking traditional Manipuri dishes, talking about their food, and sharing it with others through Lomba Kitchen. Their dishes are not just meals but an expression of their culture, history, and the love they pour into their cooking.
The Cultural Significance
The women from Lomba Kitchen are not just cooking food; they are preserving and promoting Manipuri cuisine, a culinary tradition distinct from mainstream Indian food. Their dishes incorporate ingredients like fermented bamboo shoots, soya bean paste, and dried fish, providing a unique umami flavour.
Despite the rich diversity of Indian cuisine, food from the northeastern states often faces discrimination due to its unique flavours and ingredients. Lomba Kitchen’s initiative is a step towards breaking these stereotypes and introducing the eclectic food culture of northeast India to a wider audience.
Resilience Amidst Unrest
The journey of Lomba Kitchen is not just about food. It’s also about resilience and rebuilding life amidst chaos. The women had to leave their homes due to ethnic violence and start anew in a new city. However, they chose to turn their adversity into an opportunity to share their culture and traditions through their food.
A Taste of Home
Lomba Kitchen serves a variety of traditional Manipuri dishes. The menu includes hawai thongba (split lentils cooked with chives, smoked green chillies, and garnished with dill), yen thongba (chicken curry), and kambong kanghou (a stir-fry dish made with brinjal, crispy peanuts, and water bamboo). Every meal they prepare is a slice of Manipur served on a plate, bringing comfort and a taste of home to the women.
The Future of Lomba Kitchen
While Lomba Kitchen has provided a source of solace and strength for Bido, Mardza, and Akoi, it has also become a beacon of hope for others. Through their venture, they have not only preserved their culinary traditions but also created a platform to share their culture and experiences.
As they continue to cook and serve their traditional dishes, Lomba Kitchen is more than just a culinary venture; it’s a testament to the resilience of the human spirit, the power of food in preserving culture, and the enduring love of home, even in the face of adversity